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a Chang Ghar, where the present Singpho king, Bisa Roja or Rajkumar
Bisa Nong Singpho, resides.
Bisa Nong Singpho is a man of few words but he made us feel welcome
with his graciousness and hospitality, though initially, he was somewhat wary
of us. He gave us an overview of the Singpho community and the impact of
modern society on the tribe’s way of life. in the meantime we were greeted
by his beautiful daughter, Bisa Kai, who offered us ‘Phalap’, a naturally grown
and processed tea made only by the Singpho people. it had a wonderful
smoky flavour and tasted like no other tea i had sampled earlier.
This journey itself left an indelible impact on us, turning out to be one of
the unforgettable chapters in our lives.
Tea andThe Singphos
The Singphos produce a unique type of tea that is totally different from the
conventional brew we drink. Called ‘Phalap’, it is a completely naturally
grown tea, hand processed by the Singpho women in accordance with
tradition.They pluck tender leaves which are then boiled and spread out in
the sun to dry, before exposing them to the night dew for three days. The
leaves are then packed tightly into pieces of bamboo, which are then hung
on a shelf over the fireplace, to dry.This imparts a smoky flavour to the tea
and is hence called the ‘Dhooan (smoky) Chang (bamboo shelf ) Technique’.
it can be kept for years in this manner without losing flavour, and this chunk
of tea is cut into little pieces as per requirement, when it is brewed.Meeting
Mr Rajiv Ningkhee, a noted Singpho writer who is making a documentary
on Ningru La, the first tea trader, was a privilege. He has collected factual
evidence and will be showcasing it in the documentary to prove that Ningru
La produced 35 of the total 95 boxes of tea sent for auction to Mincing
Lane, London, in 1838, for which he received £ 480. Ningru La apparently
sent these boxes even before the first Assamese planter, Maniram Dewan,
had established his garden.
At present, there are only three Singpho families in the Margherita area
who produce around 2000 kg of organic tea per year. Earlier they exported
this to Canada and a few European countries but lately have stopped doing
so as they have been unable to meet the domestic demand. Rajesh Singpho
is one such entrepreneur, who has his own tea production unit at his place.
He has modernized the traditional style of producing Singpho tea by using
simple mini wooden troughs, a mini roller and a mini dryer. However, this
form of tea produced does not have the smoky flavour.
The Singphos and Tourism
An ecotourism village nestled in the pristine lap of nature is located just
15 km away from Margherita town and 6 km from our very own
Dehing T. E. Singpho Eco-Lodge at inthong, set up in 2005, is the
brainchild of Mr Manjela Singpho. He was enterprising enough to tap
the potential of the area for business without compromising on tradition.
This unique lodge is constructed totally from bamboo in the traditional
‘chang’ style. One can try ethnic dishes here, cooked with herbs minus
oil and spices – a gourmand’s delight! There is provision for staying as
well. it is looked after by his wife, who also displays traditional Singpho
garments and handicrafts in her tiny shop there.
The Singphos are extremely proud and protective of their cultural heritage,
although they are not averse to embracing modern trends.
JULY 2015 55
The King’s Pinrang Intahk
Bisa Roja with his Ceremonial Silver Sword